From Danshui to Shilin Night Market

We spent the day in Danshui, a small waterfront town about 20km northwest of Taipei.  The boardwalk felt much like anywhere -- crowded shops selling kitsch, soft serve ice cream stands, and amusement park games for prizes (Mirabelle won a blow-up sword).  As usual, Mirabelle was a big hit with the Taiwanese women -- one young girl even asked if she could take our picture.  It's those kinds of experiences that make you realize how much of an anomaly you are.  And, in fact, we certainly are.  I have seen a handful of westerners around, and I've seen plenty of children out and about.  But I have yet to come across any Caucasian kids -- even at the zoo, where I was sure they'd be hiding. 

The lunch place that Susan had picked for us turned out to be closed, so we went instead to The Waterfront, Mediterranean cuisine overlooking the water.  It didn't feel very Taiwanese, but the food was quite good -- pesto pizzas and grilled chicken.  I had some fruit tea -- which was tea mixed with pineapple (like tasty hot juice).  Geoff decided to eat light to save room for the ensuing street food (fishball soup, pig's blood covered in nuts on a stick, etc.).  I decided to pass on most of the street food, but I found a little shop selling European breads and I bought a delicious soft pretzel. 

The one consistency I've found is in Taiwan's contradictions.  I've never before seen a sparkling posh store displaying savon next to a dilapidated stall selling colorful plastic toys.  In general, there seem to be two distinct sides to Taipei: the sleek marble department stores versus the gritty food stalls and shops.

From Danshui, we took a boat to Fisherman's Wharf where we sat and had some tea and coffee.  Then we walked across the suspension foot bridge and happily found a taxi to take us back to Susan's car.

Our next step was the Shilin Night Market.  Night markets, popular also in other parts of Asia, are huge bazaars with food stalls, clothing vendors, masseuses, fortune tellers, etc.  Of course, we tried a variety of regional specialties -- peanut ice cream, stinky tofu (to me it tasted like it smelled: like garbage), fried flattened chicken (this was the longest line and my favorite).  Geoff, of course, opted to taste more than I -- he also had sausage in a rice bun, oyster omelet, fried fish chips.  With the clamor, lights and crowds, it impressed me that Mirabelle (thankfully) slept through the entire evening.  Although this would leave us with our continuing dilemma of what to do after she woke in the middle of the night after a full night's sleep.  Apparently, she insists on remaining on Hawaii time.  After the food-for-all, Geoff and Allan sat for coffee at an upstairs cafe (Mirabelle may have broken the record for being carried up and down the most stairs in a stroller), while Susan and I went shopping for clothes.

Susan cracked me up as a shopping companion -- her refrain would be "only 200 dollar!" which is pretty cheap since the Taiwan to U.S. dollar is about 35 to 1.  At times I found the calculations a bit too obtuse -- 90% off $2850, then converted to U.S. dollars is...?  Well, it's cheap, anyway.  I have to admit, I'm not much for food markets but the shopping market was pretty fun.  I think my favorite was a t-shirt that says, "Cheerful Step" with an aside of "happy rhythmical everyday."  I have no idea what it means, but you just have to love automated translations.